M7547 Sew-Along: Waistband Facing Option for Pants

McCall's M7547 Sew-Along

This week on the M7547 Sew-Along we’re at the point where we’re ready to add a waistband (if you’re sewing the pants version as I am), or the waistband and bib, if you’re making the overalls version as Amanda is. I’m actually going the no-waistband route. I tried on my pants after step 24 (the zipper), and I decided I like them without the waistband. [Note: Amanda will be posting this week about attaching the waistband and bib, so head over to her blog for those instructions.]

That meant I needed to create a waistband facing. Fortunately this is a really easy drafting task and even beginning sewers can do this. All you need is some tracing paper. Watch my how-to video (scroll down for it) or just follow these steps:

  • Turn your pants inside out and lay them flat on a table, front side facing up.
  • Cut a large rectangle from your tracing paper and place it on top of your pants at the waist. You’re going to trace off a facing that’s about two inches wide, more or less depending on how wide you like your facings to be.
  • Trace around your pants, starting at the waist edges. On the side without a zipper, trace and include the seam allowance. On the zipper side, add and trace off a seam allowance of about two inches. This gives you some room to turn under the waistband seam allowance by the zipper, and it also gives you some extra fabric to play with in case you need it.
  • Neaten up your new pattern pieces using a dressmaker’s ruler with a slight curve. Make sure your facing is an even two inches wide (if that’s the width you’re going with) all the way around. As a guide, I used a waistband facing pattern piece from a pattern I had in my stash. Check your stash because you probably have a pattern with a waistband facing as well.
  • Scroll down to watch my video where I do a much better job of explaining this part.

That’s how to create your facing pieces. Mark “front” and “back” on each piece, and note the zipper side too. Then, when you cut out your waistband facing from your fashion fabric, be sure and flip the pattern pieces, since when you traced off your pants you were tracing the wrong side of your pants. But if you mess up on this step, as I did, don’t worry because the two facing pieces are practically interchangeable and who cares if you sew the back facing to the front of your pants (like I did).

Other steps in adding a waistband facing:

  • Apply interfacing to both pieces.
  • Sew the side seam
  • Finish the lower edge of the facing. You can serge it, turn it under 1/4″ and stitch in place, or bias-bind it. I chose to bias-bind my facing.IMG_3413
  • Pin facing in place, matching side seams. Sew 5/8″ seam around the waist.
  • Before you trim your seam allowances, stop and try on your pants. I found that after I added my facing, the waist became a little baggy on me. I solved this by removing the back facing and then taking in the center-back seam near the waist. I reattached the back facing, moving the excess part of the facing to the zipper side, where I could easily trim it off (still leaving at least 5/8″ to fold to the inside of my pants).
  • After you’re sure you like the fit, trim the seam and understitch. At the zipper opening, turn the facing ends to the inside. Press and hand-stitch in place.
McCall's M7547 Sew-Along
This is a diagram from another pattern that shows the process of adding a waistband facing. In Fig. A you can see how the facing is stitched on at the waist, with the ends extending past the zipper opening. The inset shows understitching after the facing is attached. In Fig. B, the facing ends at the zipper opening are turned under and then stitched in place.
McCall's M7547 Sew-Along
My pants facing.

Next week on the sew-along: Amanda discusses finishing touches. We are almost done! Don’t forget you can still join us on our M7547 Sew-Along Facebook group! We’re a small but friendly and helpful bunch.

And The Next Sew-Along Is…

bomber jackets are hot for fall 2016
Celebrities can’t get enough of the bomber jacket trend: Jessica Alba (InStyle), Chiara Ferragni (her Instagram), Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid (Splash News via Harper’s Bazaar), Demi Lovato (Splash News via InStyle)

The bomber jacket! We chose the bomber jacket for this fall sew-along because:

  • It’s an enduring style that’s fun and easy to wear
  • You don’t need to over-stress about achieving a tailored fit with a bomber jacket
  • There are a gazillion fabrics—knits and wovens—that work for bomber jackets
  • Because of that last fact, you’re free to be utterly creative with your own bomber jacket. Seriously, there are SO many fabric and color options with this style of jacket
  • It’s a relatively simple jacket to make, but you can challenge yourself with things like welt pockets and sophisticated interior finishes
  • Bomber jackets can be super-sporty or ultra-glam
  • And many of you spoke up on our social media and suggested a bomber jacket for this sew-along.

So let’s do it! The patterns we’ve chosen for this sew-along are McCall’s M7100 and Butterick B6181. They’re very similar, though the McCall’s jacket has a slightly slimmer fit and princess seams, while the Butterick pattern doesn’t have princess seams and is about an inch or so longer than the McCall’s.

 

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We’ll get a complete schedule posted within the next couple of weeks, and we promise it will allow plenty of time for you to get your patterns and fabrics. Some of the things this sew-along may cover are:

  • making welt pockets
  • adding a lining to an unlined jacket
  • underlining or flatlining (taking your outer fabric, pairing it with a lightweight fabric like georgette, then treating the two fabrics as one fabric)
  • Hong Kong seams and other interior finishes
  • zippers in jackets
  • choosing and selecting ribbing for your jacket

In the meantime, check out our Bomber Jacket Pinterest board, where we’ve pinned lots of sewing inspiration.

Note: For those of you who wanted to do a pants sew-along, take heart as we are considering pants for our spring sew-along.

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Have you seen our newest video? It features seven patterns from our Fall collections and was filmed on location here in downtown Manhattan. Check it out!

McCall Pattern Company Fall 2016 video

 

 

It’s the Gertie Pinterest Contest!

Gertie Pinterest contest sponsored by the McCall Pattern Company and Fabric Traditions

New contest for you to enter! It’s the Gertie Pinterest contest, and just for creating a lovely pinboard you could win $300 worth of Gertie fabric, $200 worth of Gertie patterns, and a $50 gift certificate from Jo-Ann Fabrics. Plus, there’s a bonus gift of a signed copy of Gertie’s Ultimate Dress Book, retail price of $36. That’s $586 worth of sewing-related prizes!

In case you aren’t familiar with Gertie of Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing, she’s a designer of retro-style patterns for Butterick, and she has her own line of fabrics at Jo-Ann Fabrics. (Not to mention a few books under her belt as well.) As you probably know from reading her blog, Gertie (a.k.a. Gretchen Hirsch) loves all things vintage.

So the team from McCall Pattern Company and Fabric Traditions (the manufacturer of Gertie’s fabrics) thought it would be fun to have a Pinterest contest around Gertie that lets you have some pinning playtime, and just might inspire your next retro or vintage-style makes. Here’s what you need to do to enter:

Imagine a scene or setting for Gertie and style a Pinterest board around this scene. For example: a “Gertie at Coney Island, 1955” board could be filled with pins of cats-eye sunglasses, straw beach bag, vintage towel and 1950s magazines to read. Vintage scenes or contemporary scenes—it doesn’t matter. Just be creative and have fun with your Gertie scenes!

Feel free to pin Gertie patterns found here and Gertie fabrics found here, though pinning them is not a requirement and won’t affect your chances of winning.

Prized for the 2016 Gertie Pinterest contestWhen you’re done with your board, email a link to your board to pinterest@mccallpattern.com with Gertie Pinterest Contest in the subject line by Friday, March 18th. This contest runs until March 18, 2016. The marketing team from McCall Pattern Company and Fabric Traditions will pick the winner, which will be announced on this blog the week of 3/22/16. Official contest rules are here.

Questions? Feel free to ask in the comments section here. Hope you’re as excited about this contest as we are!

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McCall Pattern Company Spring 2016 Collections Video

In case you missed it: We just debuted a new video about what to sew for spring, and McCall’s designer Melissa Watson has a new video series about fit, made in conjunction with Fabric Mart. You can see all our new videos here.