Finished: A New Coat for 2016

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

First project of the new year: another coat! This is now the 15th? 16th? coat I’ve made in the last eight years. Clearly I have an addiction, but my handmade coats give me so much pleasure I don’t see myself quitting anytime soon.

Ok, so you’ll recall I made this quilted coat recently from Vogue Patterns V9123. Which I love, love, love because it’s just so cozy to wear. My plan was to immediately make another quilted coat just like it, though in a solid color. But when I saw this Linton tweed at Paron Fabrics in the garment district, I was like, game over, this fabric is coming home with me. (Linton Tweeds, as you may know, supplies Chanel and other top designers with stunning tweed fabrics.)

Because the plaid is on the bold side, I needed a coat pattern with very simple lines, and this meant I could reuse V9123—no collar to worry about, one-piece sleeves, and just two seams on the sides. Matching of plaids at seams would be minimal. Take a look at my finished coat:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

For the wow factor, I’m showing it first with the faux fur scarf I bought to go with it.

Here it is without:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

(A professional pressing from the drycleaner’s will help give this coat a more polished look. It looks a little lumpy on the dressform to me.)

The lining is a copper silk charmeuse, also from Paron’s:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

v9123-coat-back-lining-a

Pattern notes:

  • I like a snug sleeve cap at the shoulder, so I trimmed about a half inch from both the sleeve cap (top of sleeve) and the armscye (by the shoulder seam).
  • Carlos Correa, Vogue Patterns designer, created this pattern as a coat-and-dress ensemble meant for lighter-weight fabrics, like jacquards and damasks. It’s also designed to be belted, so it’s a little roomy, but not too much. Because my tweed fabric is heavy, and I didn’t want to belt this coat, I ended up sizing down one size.
  • I like the way we instruct you to insert the lining. In a nutshell, the lining goes all the way to the coat’s front edges and neck edges. Then you stitch the facing on top of the lining. I finished my facing with black satin bias trim, then hand-stitched it to the lining:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

I think V9123 is a good pattern for advanced beginner sewers who want to try making their first coat. Plus, you get a cute dress pattern to go with it! This Dolce & Gabbana coat served as inspiration for the pattern, by the way:

Dolce & Gabbana coat, previously available at Net-a-Porter
Previously available at Net-a-Porter

I’m so pleased with this coat, and I feel like it’s a harbinger of good sewing projects ahead for 2016. My next project is a shirt made from four-ply silk panels in a dramatic print, and so far it’s going well.

What do you have in the works for 2016? I want to know what everybody’s working on these days!

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.