Finished: A New Coat for 2016

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

First project of the new year: another coat! This is now the 15th? 16th? coat I’ve made in the last eight years. Clearly I have an addiction, but my handmade coats give me so much pleasure I don’t see myself quitting anytime soon.

Ok, so you’ll recall I made this quilted coat recently from Vogue Patterns V9123. Which I love, love, love because it’s just so cozy to wear. My plan was to immediately make another quilted coat just like it, though in a solid color. But when I saw this Linton tweed at Paron Fabrics in the garment district, I was like, game over, this fabric is coming home with me. (Linton Tweeds, as you may know, supplies Chanel and other top designers with stunning tweed fabrics.)

Because the plaid is on the bold side, I needed a coat pattern with very simple lines, and this meant I could reuse V9123—no collar to worry about, one-piece sleeves, and just two seams on the sides. Matching of plaids at seams would be minimal. Take a look at my finished coat:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

For the wow factor, I’m showing it first with the faux fur scarf I bought to go with it.

Here it is without:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

(A professional pressing from the drycleaner’s will help give this coat a more polished look. It looks a little lumpy on the dressform to me.)

The lining is a copper silk charmeuse, also from Paron’s:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

v9123-coat-back-lining-a

Pattern notes:

  • I like a snug sleeve cap at the shoulder, so I trimmed about a half inch from both the sleeve cap (top of sleeve) and the armscye (by the shoulder seam).
  • Carlos Correa, Vogue Patterns designer, created this pattern as a coat-and-dress ensemble meant for lighter-weight fabrics, like jacquards and damasks. It’s also designed to be belted, so it’s a little roomy, but not too much. Because my tweed fabric is heavy, and I didn’t want to belt this coat, I ended up sizing down one size.
  • I like the way we instruct you to insert the lining. In a nutshell, the lining goes all the way to the coat’s front edges and neck edges. Then you stitch the facing on top of the lining. I finished my facing with black satin bias trim, then hand-stitched it to the lining:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

I think V9123 is a good pattern for advanced beginner sewers who want to try making their first coat. Plus, you get a cute dress pattern to go with it! This Dolce & Gabbana coat served as inspiration for the pattern, by the way:

Dolce & Gabbana coat, previously available at Net-a-Porter
Previously available at Net-a-Porter

I’m so pleased with this coat, and I feel like it’s a harbinger of good sewing projects ahead for 2016. My next project is a shirt made from four-ply silk panels in a dramatic print, and so far it’s going well.

What do you have in the works for 2016? I want to know what everybody’s working on these days!

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

Finished: “Test” Quilted Coat V9123

Quilted coat inspiration. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

Pinterest gets complete credit for my latest make. One of the pinners I follow started pinning all sorts of quilted coats and jackets, and I suddenly became OBSESSED with making something quilted. I mean, just look at how gorgeous those coats are in the photo above, which I found on Pinterest by searching “quilted coat” and “quilted jacket.”

So I set about to making my first quilted coat. I didn’t want to make anything that looked like a puffer or a Burberry jacket…I wanted something more along the lines of Isabel Marant’s quilted coats (inspo photo above on the far right). Kind of Parisian street-style-looking. I chose Vogue Pattern V9123, because I had already made a muslin of it and knew its simple lines would work well for my first foray into quilted garment-making. I found some cotton jacquard and good quality poly charmeuse in the garment district, ordered some Hobbs wool batting, and I was off to the races.

Having already taken quilting lessons (thank you, Sew Right and City Quilter!) and made several quilts, I was able to assemble this coat just over the course of two weekends. I was pleasantly surprised at how fast it came together!

Quilted coat made using Vogue Pattern V9123. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

So… I feel about 75 percent satisfaction with this “test” coat. On the plus side, it is so soft and comfy to wear, plus that wool batting layer kept me warm on Monday here in NYC when it was really cold. I technically did a good job with the quilting, construction and binding, yay me. And I’m eager to make another quilted garment. All good.

The 25 percent negative part is from choosing the wrong outer fabric. I thought this print would be retro-chic but, ick, I’m just not in love with it. In these photos I feel it looks a little like grandma’s quilted housecoat. (Granted, the photos aren’t really picking up the nice texture that the cotton jacquard has.) Carlos, designer for Vogue Patterns, told me my coat looked “vintage, but in a good way,” but I think he was just being nice to me. Now I wish I had gone with a solid color and I probably will with the next quilted coat!

Quilted coat made using Vogue Pattern V9123. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company blog.
Ok, so here it looks a little Isabel Marant-ish on the model. I really like the pockets, by the way. (Quilted black cotton velvet.) I originally planned on making welt pockets but those made the coat look too serious and old. I personally think these big patch pockets are fun (and wonderful to sink my hands in).

 

Quilted coat made using Vogue Pattern V9123. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company blog.
I am in love with this charmeuse lining. So wonderful to wear. My favorite part of this coat. Makes me want to make this coat in a solid fabric.

Quilted coat made using Vogue Pattern V9123. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

 

Quilted coat made using Vogue Pattern V9123. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

 

Don’t worry, I’ll get a lot of wear out of this coat, just because it’s so comfy. In my next post I’ll give you some tips on making your first quilted garment. Stay tuned!

If You’ve Never Sewn a Coat Before, Start With One of These Patterns

Coat patterns for beginning sewers.

Ready to sew your first coat? Even if you’re still relatively new to sewing, coats can be easy to make. In this recent blog post we gave you some tips for making your first coat. Today we’ve got suggestions for five coat patterns that a sewing newbie should be able to tackle with confidence.

Butterick B6244: Coat patterns for beginning sewers.

1) Butterick B6244 by Lisette. This is a great sewing pattern for beginners. One, no lining to worry about! Two, it has an easy, loose shape so you won’t need to spend time worrying about fit. Best yet, Lisette designer Liesl Gibson just hosted a sew along to make this coat, so you’ve got step-by-step help from the designer herself.

McCall's M7257: Coat patterns for beginning sewers.

2) McCall’s M7257. We show this coat in a faux fur, but it can be sewn up in medium- to heavyweight stable knits or wools. There’s no collar to worry about, making it suitable for newbies. The fit is on the boxy side, with a dropped shoulder. Minimal details means this coat will also sew up fast.

Butterick B6251: Coat patterns for beginning sewers.

3) Butterick B6251. This is another unlined coat option for beginners. Look for cozy knits and fleeces in solids or small prints. (Hold off on pattern-matching until you get a little more experience under your belt.) Shawl collars are simple to sew.

Vogue Patterns V9136: Coat patterns for beginning sewers.

4) Vogue Patterns V9136. Another one without a lining and a loose, boxy shape. Dropped shoulders are super-easy to sew, because you don’t have to fuss with set-in sleeves and achieving a smooth sleeve cap. And that stand-up collar will keep you nice and cozy this season. Make this pattern out of soft wools or fleeces.

Vogue Patterns V9156: Coat patterns for beginning sewers.

5) Vogue Patterns V9156. This one is the more complex patterns shown here, but it’s still beginner-friendly. The entire directions fit on one side of the paper, in fact. Plus, no fussing with set-in sleeves here. The collar looks intimidating but it’s actually simple to attach. Make this coat pattern out of wools, or tweeds with a tight weave.

We hope this post and our previous post have given you the confidence to tackle your first coat. You’ll be surprised at how quickly a coat pattern can come together, and how addictive coat sewing can be. Good luck, and tag us in your social media when you post about making your first (or gazillionth!) coat.