We’ve already discussed some ways to make the inside of your bomber jacket look nice, but we haven’t yet addressed how to add a full lining. There are several reasons you might want to do this: to add warmth, to make the jacket smoother to put on, to add a fun contrasting fabric, or to avoid having to clean-finish the seam allowances. Adding the lining is actually pretty simple, and you can do it at the very end of the project after finishing everything else. So even if you weren’t planning on it originally, you can still change your mind!
For the most part the the lining pieces are cut the same as the outer jacket, but at center front you’ll need to trim away the width of the front facing. Do this by laying the facing piece on top of the jacket front, and drawing in the line where the facing ends. Then, move the line 1 1/4″ (3.2cm) closer to the front to allow for a seam allowance on both lining and facing.
Assemble the lining fronts, back, and sleeves, and (if using M7100) sew the sleeve dart. You will need to leave an opening somewhere to turn the jacket right side out; if you prefer to sew it closed by machine it’s best to leave the opening in the sleeve seam where it will not be visible. Leave about a 6″ (15cm) gap to make it easy to turn the jacket through the hole.
Flip the ribbing toward the inside of the jacket and sew the lining to the seam allowances at neckline and hem, right sides together and making sure all the layers match up at the seams and center back. (The ribbing will be sandwiched between the jacket shell and lining.) Stitch from the jacket side so you can sew right on top of your previous stitching, and stretch the ribbing slightly so the jacket and lining are smooth. Stop and backtack just before the seam allowance at each end so it will be free to sew the facing edges.
Sew the lining to the two front facings. This gets a tiny bit tricky at the top and bottom of the zipper, so pin carefully to make sure everything stays smooth and there are no tucks or wrinkles. If you haven’t left an opening in the sleeve to turn the jacket, leave a 6″ (15cm) gap in the middle of one of the facing seams.
Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Next we need to pull the lining sleeves through the jacket sleeves and attach them at the wrist.
Turn the sleeve seam allowances to the inside at the wrist and match up the seams. Reach through the opening in the lining, between the jacket and lining layers, to pinch the seam allowances of both jacket and lining at the wrist (again, the ribbing will be sandwiched between the jacket and lining). Grip the layers firmly right next to the seam so that you’ll be able to see how they match up on the inside. Pull both layers out through the lining opening.
Making sure the seam allowances on jacket, cuff, and lining are still lined up and that the lining isn’t twisted, pin or hand baste the layers together around the circumference of the cuff. Sew from the jacket side, right on top of the previous stitching, stretching slightly so it lies flat and being careful not to catch any extra layers in the stitching.
Turn the sleeves right side out and close up the lining, either with an invisible hand stitch or by folding the two sides of the opening together and edgestitching. Finish any topstitching on the outside of the jacket.
The jacket lining is done! Tune in next week for the big reveal, and don’t forget you can share your own progress in the sew-along facebook group.