Detail Photos of Vogue Winter-Holiday Patterns

V1423 dress detail photos. Vogue Patterns Bellville Sassoon

We’re just like you when we sew: We love to see all the important details in a garment. Really helps you figure things out, right? So we grabbed a rack full of sample garments from the newest Vogue Patterns Winter-Holiday collection and spent a morning in our photo studio taking lots of pictures. They’re all pinned here, and we hope they help you as you sew. The photo above and the ones below are just a few of the detail shots you’ll find. Check it out!

V1428 dress pattern by Tom and Linda Platt for Vogue Patterns.
V1428 dress for Vogue Patterns by Tom and Linda Platt. Always nice to see what the lining looks like, right?
V1420 Anne Klein dress for Vogue Patterns. Closeup of the criss-cross bodice.
V1420 Anne Klein dress for Vogue Patterns. Closeup of the criss-cross bodice.

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V1419 coat sewalong update: It’s Lauren’s turn to post this week and she’s covering steps 23-50. Head over there for her helpful write-up. And even if you’re not a Flickr person, take a look at the group photos and discussions happening there. Chances are you’ll find information that will help your #V1419sewalong construction process.

V1419 Sewalong: Steps 4-22

Vogue Patterns V1419 Ralph Rucci coat sewalong

Before I start talking about making this coat, can I just give a shout-out to my co-host Lauren? I’ve been away from work recently due to a death in the family and she has been juggling the sewalong duties for the both of us. Thank you, Lauren!

Ok, let’s talk about getting through steps 4-22. The good news is that there’s nothing terribly hard to do here. Setting-in sleeves is more difficult for most sewers, so if you’ve already mastered that technique you should have no problem with this coat. Here are my tips for this part of the construction:

  • Attaching the binding to the seams is the main action you’re taking in these steps. Except for steps 6 and 7, you’re sewing it folded as shown in step 3, with the raw edges of the binding matched with the raw edges of the seams.
  • When you attach the binding to the gusset, however, you open it out, then turn and press 1/4″ on the long end. Stitch binding to the seam, then turn binding so the seam is encased; slipstitch pressed edge over seam. You can see part of my bound gusset seam in the photo above, and there’s another photo below of the designer coat gusset.
  • The rest of the time for this part of construction you sew on the binding like this:
  1. Pin or baste seam.
  2. Match raw edges of binding to raw edges of seam.
  3. Stitch seam.
  4. I like to press the seam open first, then press the binding and seam flat.
  5. Next, trim very close to the seam, like around 1/8″ or closer. Your bindings are going to be narrow. On the designer coat the stitched bindings are just a hair over 1/4″ wide.
  6. Now press seam and bias in direction we tell you to. Baste if necessary to keep layers flat.
  7. Topstitch from the right side of your coat, catching all layers as you stitch.

Lauren chose to baste her binding in place first before topstitching from the right side of her coat. This is a really smart thing to do. Me, I threw caution to the wind and just topstitched from the right side, hoping I was catching all layers. Most of the time I did, and this is what my binding looks like on the interior of my coat:

IMG_4317
But there are points, mostly at the beginning and ends of seams, where the binding doesn’t look as neat and uniform as this or I failed to catch all layers. To which I say, it is what it is! It looks very nice from the outside and that’s what matters most to me.

Readers, don’t beat yourself up over the little things, like whether or not your binding is uniformly stitched. Do the best you can and keep going. I took a look at the inside of the actual designer coat and there are imperfections  in the binding stitching. But that’s how you know this coat was constructed by a couture sewer and not mass-produced. V1419 Vogue Patterns coat sewalong
Couture designers, they’re just like us! Their sewing machines have thread hissy fits just like ours do! (photo above of the interior of the designer coat)

V1419 Vogue Patterns coat sewalong

Here’s a photo of the gusset area of the designer coat. See how the gusset binding isn’t stitched down, where it is everywhere else? (I’m keeping this coat in my office for the duration of the sewalong; let me know if there are parts of the coat you want me to photograph and I’ll post the pics on Flickr.)

Another important tip: Don’t ignore it when we tell you to staystitch. Do this. It will help you ease your fabric in some spots, like when you’re stitching the gusset to the sleeve. And clip your seams too! All this helps with helping a shorter section match up with a longer section. Below, you can see how I use lots of pins to ease-in an area, in this case part of the gusset.

V1419 Vogue Patterns coat sewalong

In case you were wondering, my fabric is a double-faced metallic brocade from Carolina Herrera that I bought online from MoodFabrics.com. It is very stiff and it bells out just like the designer coat…which is a style I’m not entirely sure I like on me. Still a way to go constructing this coat before I can make any final judgments, though.

I’ve been paying very close attention to our instructions for this pattern, and I think we did a good job for a pattern with a lot of steps. If you read and follow them you’ll be ok. What I do wish for are some illustration close-ups, like around steps #6, #18 and #20. I’ll be sharing my construction experience with my co-workers who work in the writing and illustration areas, and if you have any comments regarding this part of the process please let me know in the comments for this post.

V1419 sewalong: belt

A few people have asked questions about the belt, so above are photos of the belt on the designer coat. Hope this helps.

Next week Lauren will talk about steps 23-50, so bop over to her blog for that part. And don’t forget we’ve got an active Flickr group going. It’s very easy to join it and participate, so hope to see you there too.

Ok, where do you stand in your coat-making? Tell me in the comments!

 

Editor’s Picks: Kwik Sew Patterns

Kwik Sew Fall/Winter 2014 catalogThe Kwik Sew Fall/Winter 2014 collection debuted recently and I cozied up with this pattern catalog for a little look-through. Kwik Sew has been my go-to for basic patterns for years, but I was pleasantly surprised at how many stylish options this brand offers. Here are my top five picks for sewing right now:

Kwik Sew K4087 jacket

1) K4087 jacket: The moment I saw this new jacket pattern I thought of the Becky jacket by Rebecca Minkoff. I know you’re saying c’mon, Meg, you usually do a better job of matching your patterns to RTW, but to me it has a very similar feel to the designer jacket. Ignore the prints we made it up in and make your version out of solid 4-ply silk (if it’s available in a color you like and not too pricey, or a comparable poly fabric) or wool crepe. Lovely.

Kwik Sew K4068 dress

2) K4068 dress: This dress is for everyone who loves a feminine dress with a softly gathered waist. If you like our McCall’s shirtdress M6696, then you’ll love this pattern. Sew it out of soft cottons or silks in solids or mini prints. And look super-cute when you wear it.

Kwik Sew K4083 peplum top

3) K4083 top: We’re going nuts here over this flirty peplum top. I mean, cute peplum and color-blocked sides? Count us in! We recommend using lightweight fabrics for this Kwik Sew pattern, like silks or polyesters, for the best results. Maybe try color-blocking solids instead of mixing a print with a solid. Your call.

Kwik Sew K4031 cape

4) K4031 cape: Yes, I am going to keep forcing cape patterns on you this season until you break down and make one. This Kwik Sew pattern looks very similar to the Chloé capes that sell for close to $5,000. Make your much more reasonably priced version out of the softest wool or wool blend you can find, the thicker the better.

Kwik Sew K3764 biker jacket

5) K3764 moto/biker jacket: This pattern is an oldie but really, really goodie. You need to rock a motorcycle jacket this season and this is the pattern to get you on the road. Make it out of leather or faux leather, or explore some unexpected fabric choices, like the silver jacquard of the designer biker jacket in the photo above. Yes, you will look smoking-hot in this jacket.

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V1419 Sewalong update: How is everybody doing with this? Are you checking out our Flickr group and contributing comments (if you want)? I am up to step #8. Where are you in the process?