M7547 Sew-Along: Darts and Pockets (steps 1-13)

McCall's M7547 Sew-Along

Welcome to Week 4 of the McCall’s M7547 sew-along. If you’re keeping pace with us you should have made a muslin and cut out your fashion fabric by now. If you aren’t sewing along in real-time, no worries! We’ll leave these posts up indefinitely.

Since so many of you have told us you want more video tutorials, here’s a straightforward video I made that explains how to do all the steps this week, from the darts in the beginning through adding the pockets in step 13. (Excuse the low production values!)

Sewing darts on the back pockets. Making darts on midweight woven fabrics is pretty easy to do. First, mark on the wrong side of your fabric where your dart begins and ends. In wovens that don’t fray I like to make little snips outside the seamline to mark where the dart legs start. These make it easier to line up the dart legs.

Stitch your dart as you normally do. When I get about .5″ away from the dart point, I reduce my stitch length to about 1, stitching right off the fabric. Tie a knot in the threads to secure your stitches. The small stitches near the dart point create a secure dart that holds up to stress.

McCall's M7547 Sew-Along
Back dart in M7547 pants pattern. My fabric is a stretch cotton twill I found in the garment district.

Stitching the pockets. First, pockets are a personal design choice. You can add them or omit them; either way these pants/overalls will still look good. I’m not crazy about back pockets on me, so I only made the cargo-style pockets for the front.

For these cargo pockets you’re going to make a narrow hem at the curved upper edge, where your hand slips in the pocket. Turn under 5/8″ here and press. Then fold under the seam allowance and press so you have a narrow hem. Stitch.

Next, turn under the seam allowance on remaining pocket edges, except for the little part at the top that will be enclosed by the waistband. To guarantee that I’m pressing under exactly 5/8″, I stitch just a hair to the right of the 5/8″ seamline, creating a stitching line that becomes my pressing line. I used to turn and press under using a seam gauge to measure, but that’s time-consuming and harder to maintain a consistent 5/8″ accuracy.

McCall's M7547 Sew-Along
Miter the corners to get a sharp point here. Fold in the corner at the point where the seamlines intersect; press. Then turn in seamlines and press again.

McCall's M7547 Sew-Along

Pin your pockets in place matching the symbols at the upper edge near the waist. In the video I show you how to do this and how to make sure both the left side and the right side of your pants are mirror images.

Edgestitch the pockets in place, then topstitch about 1/4″or less away from the edgestitching. Baste the upper edge of the pocket in place.
McCall's M7547 Sew-Along

IMG_3356

Note: In step 10 we tell you to trim away the right front mock fly extension. Do this if you plan to sew a mock fly. Since I’m omitting the mock fly in my version, after I took the above photo I trimmed the extension on both front pieces.

Next week on the sew-along: My co-host Amanda will walk you through steps 14-24. Don’t forget to join our Facebook Group for the sew-along! And readers, when I tell you that these M7547 pants are one of my most favorite things I’ve sewn recently, it is NO LIE. Love these pants and am already obsessing about making another pair.

M7547 Sew-Along: Making a Muslin

McCall's M7547 Sew-Along

This week on the sew-along we’re talking about making a muslin of your pants or overalls before you cut into your fashion fabric. Here is our sage advice on this topic:

A muslin is something you never regret making. Not making a muslin is something you often regret.

I made one, as you see here, and while I was happy with most of the fit, the muslin helped me see that I needed to narrow the fit in the thigh area. I altered my pattern tissue to reflect this, and now hopefully I won’t need to fiddle with this area when I make my real pants.

To learn more about making a muslin for this particular pattern, head over to my sew-along co-host’s blog, Amanda’s Adventures in Sewing.

amandaturner1977
Spotted on Instagram: amandaturner1977’s version of M7547 pants. Love these!

Have you joined our Facebook group for this sew-along? It’s a great place to share your progress and ask questions. We’ll keep it open to new members through the end of May.

Next week in the sew-along: Pockets (steps 1-13)

Spring Sew-Along: M7547 Inspiration and Fabrics

McCall's M7547 Sew-AlongThis week in the sew-along we’re talking about style inspiration and suitable fabrics for M7547. I know many of you were thinking “Hmm, I’m not so sure the high-waist pants or overalls look is for me.” And I have to admit initially I had the same thought. But then I made a muslin of the flare pants, and readers, I like them on me!

McCall's M7547 Sew-Along
My muslin before adding the waistband. I may omit the waistband because I do like them as is here. If I do, I’ll provide instructions on how to sew a waistband facing instead.

Let’s talk about suitable fabrics first. I made my muslin (View A, above) out of a lightweight cotton sateen with Lycra, and I was hoping this version would turn into a wearable muslin. While I do think they’re cute, I felt the fabric was too lightweight and would probably crease more than I like. So I’m making my “real” version from a floral stretch cotton twill I bought at the former Chic Fabrics in the garment district. It’s a little more substantial than the cotton sateen but lighter in weight than a denim.

Because this pattern is designed to have a close fit in the hip area, I strongly recommend you choose a woven fabric with Lycra in it. That bit of stretch will make wearing these pants more comfortable, I promise. Fabrics that work well for either the overalls or the pants include:

  • Stretch denim
  • Stretch twill
  • Jacquards with Lycra
  • bottomweight fabrics with Lycra
  • suitings with Lyrca
McCall's M7547 Sew-Along
Clockwise from top left: Jo-Ann Fabrics bottomweight stretch white denim; Fabric.com Telio Stretch Printed Denim Paisley Floral Dark Blue; Promenade Fabrics Cotton Pique Floral and Bird Print with Stretch; FabricMart Slate Blue/Black/White Cotton/Lycra Stripe Denim.

For your sewing inspiration we’ve created a Pinterest board filled with RTW styles to borrow:

More RTW style inspiration:

McCall's M7547 Sew-Along
l-r: J Crew pants (nordstrom), French Connection overalls (Yoox.com), Fausto Puglisi pants (Frwd.com); Patrizia Pepe overalls (Yoox.com).

 

• • • • •

A couple of sew-along notes: One, if you are ready to cut out your pattern, cut the waistband piece 1-2 inches longer than the pattern piece. This is not a mistake in the pattern—this is just a personal suggestion from me to make your sewing easier. When the instructions have you attach the waistband to the pants, we specify easing the pants to fit the waistband. If you make your waistband longer you don’t need to bother with easing and this step will be a lot faster and easier.

Two, we just created a Sew-Along group on Facebook for this. Joining the Facebook group is not necessary to participate in the sew-along, but I think the people who do join find it makes sewing together a lot more fun and personable. It’s a great way to make new sewing friends.

Next week: Amanda will be talking about sewing a muslin to assess fit. Stay tuned!