Bomber Jacket Sew-Along: Adding a Lining

McCall Pattern Company blog: Bomber Jacket Sew-AlongWe’ve already discussed some ways to make the inside of your bomber jacket look nice, but we haven’t yet addressed how to add a full lining. There are several reasons you might want to do this: to add warmth, to make the jacket smoother to put on, to add a fun contrasting fabric, or to avoid having to clean-finish the seam allowances. Adding the lining is actually pretty simple, and you can do it at the very end of the project after finishing everything else. So even if you weren’t planning on it originally, you can still change your mind!

For the most part the the lining pieces are cut the same as the outer jacket, but at center front you’ll need to trim away the width of the front facing. Do this by laying the facing piece on top of the jacket front, and drawing in the line where the facing ends. Then, move the line 1 1/4″ (3.2cm) closer to the front to allow for a seam allowance on both lining and facing.

Assemble the lining fronts, back, and sleeves, and (if using M7100) sew the sleeve dart. You will need to leave an opening somewhere to turn the jacket right side out; if you prefer to sew it closed by machine it’s best to leave the opening in the sleeve seam where it will not be visible. Leave about a 6″ (15cm) gap to make it easy to turn the jacket through the hole.

Sew the jacket lining to the shell and ribbing at the neck and lower edge

Flip the ribbing toward the inside of the jacket and sew the lining to the seam allowances at neckline and hem, right sides together and making sure all the layers match up at the seams and center back. (The ribbing will be sandwiched between the jacket shell and lining.) Stitch from the jacket side so you can sew right on top of your previous stitching, and stretch the ribbing slightly so the jacket and lining are smooth. Stop and backtack just before the seam allowance at each end so it will be free to sew the facing edges.

Leave a six inch opening in the lining to turn it out

Sew the lining to the two front facings. This gets a tiny bit tricky at the top and bottom of the zipper, so pin carefully to make sure everything stays smooth and there are no tucks or wrinkles. If you haven’t left an opening in the sleeve to turn the jacket, leave a 6″ (15cm) gap in the middle of one of the facing seams.

turn the jacket right side out through the opening

Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Next we need to pull the lining sleeves through the jacket sleeves and attach them at the wrist.

fold the sleeve seam allowances down at the wrist

Turn the sleeve seam allowances to the inside at the wrist and match up the seams. Reach through the opening in the lining, between the jacket and lining layers, to pinch the seam allowances of both jacket and lining at the wrist (again, the ribbing will be sandwiched between the jacket and lining). Grip the layers firmly right next to the seam so that you’ll be able to see how they match up on the inside. Pull both layers out through the lining opening.

sew the lining to the cuff

Making sure the seam allowances on jacket, cuff, and lining are still lined up and that the lining isn’t twisted, pin or hand baste the layers together around the circumference of the cuff. Sew from the jacket side, right on top of the previous stitching, stretching slightly so it lies flat and being careful not to catch any extra layers in the stitching.

fell stitch the lining closed

Turn the sleeves right side out and close up the lining, either with an invisible hand stitch or by folding the two sides of the opening together and edgestitching. Finish any topstitching on the outside of the jacket.

the finished bomber jacket lining

The jacket lining is done! Tune in next week for the big reveal, and don’t forget you can share your own progress in the sew-along facebook group.

  1. I’ve been eagerly awaiting this post! Wasn’t sure I could finish the rest of the jacket first. Thanks!

    1. Ah, yes! That’s why we put it so late in the sequence of posts, you can do it after pretty much everything else is done. Sorry if that wasn’t clear!

  2. Beautifully done! Can’t wait to try this. Thanks!

  3. Just want to say that when I lined my jacket, I cut the lining the same as jacket and eliminated the front facings. Just saved that extra step.

    1. How did that work out. I am making a round neck, ooen front lined dress jacket. I did not have enough fabric to face the front edge and neck so wonder how it would look lined to the center front. With no facing.

  4. Why not just moving the line drawn for the facing edge over 5/8″ when creating the front lining piece? It seems 1 1/4″ is too much given that you will be taking the other seam allowance of 5/8″ from the facing when attaching the lining.

    1. To sew them together you need two seam allowances worth of overlap. I’m adding both to the lining, but If you want a wider facing you could add 5/8″ to the lining and 5/8″ to the facing. Both ways work!

  5. I am behind schedule and about to add my lining. I noticed here you didn’t add a pleat in the back lining? Can you explain why? I’m thinking because this is not a fitted jacket, it may not be necessary. Thanks!

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