If you’re making McCall’s M7100 bomber jacket in sizes L-XXL, we suggest you read this post by Kristen Schultz, a member of our Bomber Jacket Sew-Along Facebook Group. Here, Kristen walks you through the few simple pattern adjustments we recommend you do to the upper sleeve and front bodice area, before you cut out your fabric.
I am going to show you how to make the front bodice (pattern piece 1), side front piece (pattern piece 4), and raglan sleeve (pattern piece 6) align for sizes L-XXL. There are several ways to accomplish this task but the easiest is to grade up at the sleeve front to extend the length where needed. (Not covered – Another way is to adjust the sleeve dart and ease the fit, which results in a broader shoulder, about ½ inch length may need to be added to overall length).
Step 2: Check Sleeve pattern piece compared to the assembled front and back sleeves. The yellow highlighted area shows that the Sleeve is too short on the front size and needs lengthening and graded up.
Step 3: Lengthening the Sleeve – measure out 1.25 inches (3.18 cm) from the short side sleeve front. It will extend to the seam line (between pattern piece #4 Side Front and #5 Back). [Editor’s note: the length you need to add to the sleeve will vary depending on what size you make and other alterations you may have made. Use the amount you determined in the previous step.] Using your Curve Ruler, grade back down to taper the sleeve width. Not tapering will widen the sleeve.
Step 4: Check your new sleeve adjustment to the Bodice and Side Front. The notches now line up between the sleeve front with 1.25 in (3.18 cm) length adjustment. Not shown, but the front and back collar pieces also match up. After you confirm your adjustments, you can now cut your fabric.
Thank you for reading about this adjustment. Happy sewing! —Kristen Schultz
Coming tomorrow: Fitting raglan shoulders on your bomber jacket