Finished: A New Coat for 2016

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

First project of the new year: another coat! This is now the 15th? 16th? coat I’ve made in the last eight years. Clearly I have an addiction, but my handmade coats give me so much pleasure I don’t see myself quitting anytime soon.

Ok, so you’ll recall I made this quilted coat recently from Vogue Patterns V9123. Which I love, love, love because it’s just so cozy to wear. My plan was to immediately make another quilted coat just like it, though in a solid color. But when I saw this Linton tweed at Paron Fabrics in the garment district, I was like, game over, this fabric is coming home with me. (Linton Tweeds, as you may know, supplies Chanel and other top designers with stunning tweed fabrics.)

Because the plaid is on the bold side, I needed a coat pattern with very simple lines, and this meant I could reuse V9123—no collar to worry about, one-piece sleeves, and just two seams on the sides. Matching of plaids at seams would be minimal. Take a look at my finished coat:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

For the wow factor, I’m showing it first with the faux fur scarf I bought to go with it.

Here it is without:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

(A professional pressing from the drycleaner’s will help give this coat a more polished look. It looks a little lumpy on the dressform to me.)

The lining is a copper silk charmeuse, also from Paron’s:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

v9123-coat-back-lining-a

Pattern notes:

  • I like a snug sleeve cap at the shoulder, so I trimmed about a half inch from both the sleeve cap (top of sleeve) and the armscye (by the shoulder seam).
  • Carlos Correa, Vogue Patterns designer, created this pattern as a coat-and-dress ensemble meant for lighter-weight fabrics, like jacquards and damasks. It’s also designed to be belted, so it’s a little roomy, but not too much. Because my tweed fabric is heavy, and I didn’t want to belt this coat, I ended up sizing down one size.
  • I like the way we instruct you to insert the lining. In a nutshell, the lining goes all the way to the coat’s front edges and neck edges. Then you stitch the facing on top of the lining. I finished my facing with black satin bias trim, then hand-stitched it to the lining:

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

I think V9123 is a good pattern for advanced beginner sewers who want to try making their first coat. Plus, you get a cute dress pattern to go with it! This Dolce & Gabbana coat served as inspiration for the pattern, by the way:

Dolce & Gabbana coat, previously available at Net-a-Porter
Previously available at Net-a-Porter

I’m so pleased with this coat, and I feel like it’s a harbinger of good sewing projects ahead for 2016. My next project is a shirt made from four-ply silk panels in a dramatic print, and so far it’s going well.

What do you have in the works for 2016? I want to know what everybody’s working on these days!

V9123 wool plaid coat. As seen on the McCall Pattern Company Blog.

We’ve been sewing since 1863.

31 comments
  1. What a stunning coat! The fur scarf enhances it perfectly. Your work is so inspiring. By reading your posts I have even started back to garment work. Thank you ever so much! Can’t wait to see what is next in the queue.

  2. You are such an inspiration! Absolutely stunning execution and scrumptious looking! Looks so yummy, (good enough to munch on, lol) – very professional. In the photo, it does not appear to need any additional pressing. I like the way the hem is sooo balanced. I struggle with hems especially with garments that are lined.

    My goal is to make a simple ensemble per month inspired by a shirt dress design with a skirt or top or just a skirt and top. I intend to look my best and I am using my event to jumpstart my sewing campaign – I am producing Harlem Renaissance JAZZ, FILM & ART on a quasi monthly basis in conjunction with Master of Fine Arts students from Columbia University. I have not sewn in 7 years and then it was for a travel event. At this point, I am event driven. When I started sewing 50 years ago it was my life and part of my daily routine. Maybe I can recapture some of that design spirit.

    Cheers, and Happy New Year and Happy New You,

    Emme

    What’s next for you?

  3. Great coat – a perfect pairing of wonderful fabric and pattern. Also love the fur collar.

  4. I need to line a funnel neck coat which got abandoned before christmas. It shoul be ready in time for spring.

  5. Trying to learn how to post on fan gallery board.! I am , lionofzion59 ( on pinterest.)

    1. Cheryl, please email us at pinterest@mccallpattern.com with a link to your Pinterest profile so we can sign you up to pin. Thanks!

  6. Your coat is just gorgeous! The pattern and fabric are perfect together, and I love the fur scarf with it. Your garments are always so chic and inspiring. Thanks so much for sharing!

  7. Beautiful and stunning. Love your coat. I’m driving myself foolish trying to make a pair of golf shorts from a Marfy pattern, my first, that did not come in my size. So, lots of grading, lots of math. Just cut out my first toile and have my machines set up and ready to go. So far today, I haven’t made any bloopers, at least none that I know of. So it’s time to quite, have some dinner and sleep on it.

  8. Oh my! This coat is gorgeous. I especially love it with the faux fur scarf. Very inspiring.

  9. GORGEOUS! I love it with the fur scarf. I’m sure you look so chic striding through the streets of NY in this!

  10. This looks so stylish Meg. Can I ask how you treated the Linton wool? Did you interface or underline it at all? I am currently working on my first hand tailored wool blazer using butterick 4610.

    1. Hi! This tweed is very heavy and substantial, with a tight weave, so I chose not to interface or underline it. I really think this fabric doesn’t need the extra support. (I hope I’m right on this front and don’t regret the decision after a season or so of wear!) I also don’t like to get too hot, and underlining and interfacing up the heat factor. I wore this coat yesterday in NYC’s frigid temperature and it kept me warm as is. So, the short answer is let your fabric dictate what to do. Hope this helps!

  11. Gorgeous coat! What a great fabric find and choice of pattern to use it for

  12. The coat is lovely and beautifully executed, the matching of the. Plaid- impeccable.
    Very inspirational

  13. Absolutely fabulous. And perfect matching!

  14. You’ve made another beautiful coat, Meg! I’ve been following your sewn creations for years and love your classic style. You always find unique, beautiful fabrics and pair them with perfect patterns and sew these garments with great skill. Thanks for sharing your gems as they are inspiration to all. Karen

  15. I’ve followed your sewing from back in the day that you had your own blog. This is my favorite coat yet!

  16. Love this coat! Beautiful plaid and a great job of matching it too! Beautiful fur collar which I do with coats all the time as well. I keep reading coat made blogs and I’m getting inspired!

  17. Well done! What a great start for the year and just in time for this cold snap.

  18. Wow! Absolutely fab-u-lous!

    It’s a fantastic fabric. I hadn’t noticed anything like this on the Linton tweed website. I am going to scoot right over now though! The faux fur collar is a lot of fun too. Very inspiring.

  19. Lovely coat! Workmanship is superior.

  20. This coat is just gorgeous and with the fur collar, breathtaking! I really wish some of the fantastic stores in NYC would maintain a website. There are so many of us out here that do not have an independent fabric store and would love to purchase some goods just like this one. Thanks for letting me rant! 🙂

  21. What a fantastic coat! The fabric is perfect and I love the faux fur with it – very luxe.

  22. This is just gorgeous! I’ve not made a coat before, and this is very inspiring. I adore that fabric!

  23. Hi Meg,
    Lovely coat! Where can I get satin bias tape on-line or did you make your own?

    Thanks!
    Kaye

    1. Hi Kaye! I bought my satin bias tape from Daytona Braids & Trims in the garment district here in NYC. I don’t think they have a web site but they may sell to you via phone. It wasn’t expensive.

  24. Gorgeous! I need one!

  25. Fabulous job. I love the combination and the colors. An inspiration for me to try more.

  26. Oh, my, what an exquisite coat. The simplicity of the lines of the coat enhance the plaid fabric, and that fur collar is the perfect added touch.

  27. I hav a question about the sleeves. What’s the best way to make sure they will fit over a sweater or sweater and shirt. Should you measure yourself with those garments on?

    1. Hi Bobbie! Do you have a coat at home that you know is the right size arm for winter wear? I’d measure the bicep width (or widest part of your arm) of that and then adjust your pattern as necessary.

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