My pea coat is finished! And I’m thrilled with the results for Vogue Patterns V1467. Have a look! Then scroll down for my comments about this pattern.
(My colleague Frankie Kuschnereit-Perez, McCall Pattern Company website coordinator, is similar in size to the family member I made the jacket for, so I roped her into modeling for me. Thank you, Frankie!)
I have to give a shout-out here to Fabrics & Fabrics in NYC’s garment district for providing the McCall Pattern Company with this beautiful double-faced wool. It is as soft as your blankie from childhood and it was wonderful to sew and press. There is a strong chance I’ll be back to Fabrics & Fabrics soon to buy more double-faced wool for a coat for myself. I highly recommend visiting this store the next time you’re in the city. The service is attentive and they carry a huge selection of the most beautiful designer fabrics. One of my sewing mentors, Susan Khalje, is also a fan of this store.
My general comments about this pattern:
- I would definitely make a muslin first or do a tissue-fitting. This jacket is meant to have a closer fit than the traditional pea coat design, which was first created for sailors and had a straight silhouette and a more boxy fit. My jacket is a little snugger on Frankie here than it is on the actual recipient. The way it looks on the model in our pattern photo is true to the way it should fit when finished.
- While you can successfully make this jacket out of heavier wools, as I did, I personally think it works best out of lighter-weight wools. The Anne Klein jacket is made of lightweight wool, in fact. If you do go with a thicker wool like mine, then cut the inside collar band piece from a lighter-weight fabric so it will be easier to stitch when attaching the collar and collar band to the jacket. (Dealing with thick fabrics can get tricky to sew in this area. Ask me how I know.) Also, remember the fit will be snugger when you use a heavier fabric.
- I was initially reluctant to sew a half lining, because I am a jacket snob and I like a full lining, but I have to admit I really, really like the half lining and Hong Kong seams of this jacket. It looks chic and you don’t have to worry about the lining getting too poufy and bagging out at the jacket hem area. I can see doing this on future jackets I want to sew.
- When you finish your pea coat, take it to your drycleaner and have them press it for you, even if you think you’ve done a good pressing job. Drycleaners have the equipment to make your handmade garments look like fine ready-to-wear. (The photos here are pre-drycleaner pressing, by the way.)
- I love two details on this jacket that really make it special: the little inset at the upper back, and the dart at the sleeve cap. Nice touches that will help give your jacket a designer look.
So I give this pattern two thumbs up. I’d actually sew it again, and I rarely sew the same pattern twice. (Except for a ’90s Vogue coat pattern that I’ve made, oh, I think maybe six times already.)
My co-host Rachel wanted to post her pea coat reveal photos today as well, but rain in London has been getting in her way of taking photos she’s happy with. She’s aiming for this Saturday, so pop over to her blog then. In the meantime, check out Lori’s finished pea coat—how great does she look in it?!
Next week I hope to do a Pea Coat Sew Along summary post, with links to every sew along post Rachel and I have done. What are you sewing this weekend? I’m making easy tops right now as a palate cleanser after this pea coat. You know what I mean, right?!