Having just finished the collar section of V1467 pea coat pattern I can say that this was the hardest part of the construction process for me. Not that any of the collar process was so technically advanced—it’s actually pretty straightforward. But if you’re working with heavier-weight fabric like I am, this is where you need to send the children and pets out of the room while you curse loudly for choosing thick, unwieldy fabric.
For those of you working with less bulky fabrics, just follow the directions step by step and you’ll be fine. The most important bit of advice I can impart is to grade your seam allowances and press them open before you turn your collar. This photo below is before I graded the seam allowances and turned the collar.
So far so good. Again, you lightweight-fabric users should not have any problem with the collar construction. Baste it in place before you stitch. But joining the collar stand to the jacket was a BEAR for me when it came to sewing the collar band at the jacket neck edge. All that fabric under my sewing machine foot…this being a tricky little area that needs to be perfect…and, well, there was drama. Maybe a few tears were shed.
So I did what any grown woman who works at a company where there are professional dressmakers on staff would do: I brought my jacket to work and begged them to sew this one part of the collar for me on their industrial machines. Photo below shows the danger area (for me).
My coworkers bailed me out (THANK YOU!!!) and I was able to proceed with slipstitching the collar band pressed edge over the seam (step 53). Tonight I’ll do the edgestitching at home on my Bernina.
Here’s how you avoid the drama I had at the jacket front edges with the collar stand:
- Don’t sew the tough stuff when you’re tired.
- Follow our directions exactly in step 31 about reinforcing and clipping to the circle
- Baste the collar stand in place to the jacket neck edge
- Try using a zipper foot if your fabric is thick
Next week hop over to my co-host Rachel’s blog for all about hems and finishing. How are you doing on your pea coat? Don’t forget to use the hashtag #V1467sewalong. Have a great weekend with lots of sewing!