V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along: Collar Drama

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.


Having just finished the collar section of V1467 pea coat pattern I can say that this was the hardest part of the construction process for me. Not that any of the collar process was so technically advanced—it’s actually pretty straightforward. But if you’re working with heavier-weight fabric like I am, this is where you need to send the children and pets out of the room while you curse loudly for choosing thick, unwieldy fabric.

For those of you working with less bulky fabrics, just follow the directions step by step and you’ll be fine. The most important bit of advice I can impart is to grade your seam allowances and press them open before you turn your collar. This photo below is before I graded the seam allowances and turned the collar.

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.
Below you see my collar turned right side. Because my fabric is thick, in Step 49 when I pressed under the seam allowance I also basted it in place.

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

So far so good. Again, you lightweight-fabric users should not have any problem with the collar construction. Baste it in place before you stitch. But joining the collar stand to the jacket was a BEAR for me when it came to sewing the collar band at the jacket neck edge. All that fabric under my sewing machine foot…this being a tricky little area that needs to be perfect…and, well, there was drama. Maybe a few tears were shed.

So I did what any grown woman who works at a company where there are professional dressmakers on staff would do: I brought my jacket to work and begged them to sew this one part of the collar for me on their industrial machines. Photo below shows the danger area (for me).

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

My coworkers bailed me out (THANK YOU!!!) and I was able to proceed with slipstitching the collar band pressed edge over the seam (step 53). Tonight I’ll do the edgestitching at home on my Bernina.

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

Here’s how you avoid the drama I had at the jacket front edges with the collar stand:

  • Don’t sew the tough stuff when you’re tired.
  • Follow our directions exactly in step 31 about reinforcing and clipping to the circle
  • Baste the collar stand in place to the jacket neck edge
  • Try using a zipper foot if your fabric is thick

Next week hop over to my co-host Rachel’s blog for all about hems and finishing. How are you doing on your pea coat? Don’t forget to use the hashtag #V1467sewalong. Have a great weekend with lots of sewing!

We’ve been sewing since 1863.

  1. What is your opinion on using a lighter fabric on one side of that collar band on a coat/fabric like yours? I’m wondering which side I would have put a lighter, possibly contrasting, fabric…

    You coat is coming along beautifully!

    1. That is an awesome idea and now I’m kicking myself for not doing this, Ramona.

  2. I have this trouble at the waistband/zipper confluence on jeans. There are just too many layers that I can only clip and grade just so much.
    And yes, there will be blood. Jeans needles are thick and sharp.
    I like your awesome idea a whole lot more (taking it to professionals!)!

  3. Nce progress am taking my time trying to set in my sleeves now.

  4. Loving the progress! Beautifully done…can’t wait to see the final product!!!!

  5. Oh, how we put our blood, sweat and tears into our sewing sometimes! I think the thinner collar layer would be a great solution. It’s looking good, Meg, I love your fabric and would have also picked out a heavy melton type for this sort of jacket. After all, that’s what the original pea coats were all made with. Keep up the great work.

  6. Hi, your jacket looks fabulous. I love the color. I’m a little behind with my jacket. Still in the muslin, fitting stage. The sleeves are not cooperating. I was wondering what you think about using cotton corduroy for the jacket? I made a wool moto jacket two years ago and have had only one opportunity to wear it. It doesn’t get very cold here in the desert, and my husband won’t take me any place that gets snow.

    1. Corduroy would be perfect!

      1. Thanks. Corduroy it is.

  7. Again, I dont get this blog. It’s not a sewalong if one has to resort to professional help and industrial sewing machines.
    The construction of the neck and collar is not quite right, hence the problems. Xx

    1. Hi Jean. Can you explain what is wrong with the neck and collar so those of us who aren’t as fast as others, and do not have professional help available can avoid this problem?

  8. HI, IT COULD BE A NUMBER OF PROBLEMS, not trimming the seam allowance enough, not grading the seams, not pressing as you go, not trimming the interfacing back from the seam allowances….. I am a Tailor (fully qualified with a degree etc) and could not offer a solution without seeing the garment.There certainly is no need to resort to professional help in the construction of a coat, after all comercial patterns are meant to be made at home on a domestic machine. Dont give up, if you like the coat follow the pattern instructions and email me if you get stuck. Hope this helps a little bit.
    I will be making a coat before Christmas myself. coats are really worth the effort, I still wear one I made for my finals years ago!

  9. I have been looking at you site and I can hardly wait to get started, ‘the only thins I’ve sewn was a skirt in Junior High school and an apron. Big deal. I lookin go se me something for the holidays. Here’s hoping all goes well.

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