V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along: Lining and Facing

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

This week in the V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along we’re going over the lining and front facings today, and with the collar steps following tomorrow. Most important thing to do for these steps is PRESS, STAYSTITCH, and follow the directions in each step.

Lining fabric: For my pea coat I used a silk and cotton blend from Robert Kaufman Fabrics called Radiance. This was my first time working with this particular fabric and I really love it. The satiny side means your arms just glide through the sleeves, while the cotton fibers make it a little more substantial (good for a jacket lining) and definitely easier to work with than most lining fabrics. Highly recommend it. Other good lining options are flannel-backed satin (if you need more warmth), crepe de chine and silk charmeuse.

Steps 30 through 34:

The only part that might be hard to visualize is at 32, where you need to clip the facing seam allowance. This is what it should look like (below). Because my wool fabric is double-faced and on the thick side, I catch-stitched the facing seam allowance in place.

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.
This is what the front facing and lining look like when sewn together:

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.
I didn’t get a chance to take a photo of my back lining, so here’s how it looks in the actual designer garment:

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

(For those of you who asked, changing the back half lining to a full lining is easy. Just cut pieces 4 and 8 out of your lining fabric. Follow our directions for steps 38-40 but skipping the part at 40 where you slipstitch the front side lining to the side seam.)

Ok, at Step 38 I personally had some visualization problems. Our illustration here is spot-on, but I had to look at it a couple of times to make sense of it. It’s actually really easy what you do at this step: Join the back lining to the front facing/lining pieces at the shoulder seams; join back lining to front lining at the side seams. Press seams open and press a 5/8″ fold on the side front lining.

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Construct your sleeves exactly as you did with your fashion fabric. Remember, if you made any adjustments to your sleeve (like shaving a bit off the top of the sleeve head like I did), you need to make the same adjustments to your lining sleeve.

Step 39, where you’re stitching the front facing to the jacket front: Mark your facing in two places before you sew so your jacket fronts will be identical to each other. One, place a visible dot at the large circle at the top of the facing (refer to piece 11). Staystitch this area just as it’s shown in the instructions. Don’t be sloppy with your staystitching like I was or you will pay dearly when it’s time to  attach the collar. (The photo below shows the seam allowance already trimmed.)

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

Two, make sure you stitch across the lower edges of the jacket fronts so that when placed front edge to front edge, both jacket fronts are exactly the same length. (Because how many times have you stitched jacket fronts only to discover one front is slightly longer than the other?!)  I drew stitching lines on my jacket fronts to help me with this (below). Note: The front facing piece is slightly shorter than the jacket front piece; this is ok and meant to be this way—you didn’t make a mistake.

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

Stitch your facing as instructed in step 39. I would backstitch and reinforce where you stop stitching at the large circle (neck edge). This is where your collar will abut when you attach it, and you don’t want your seam coming apart here. Press and grade the facing seam allowances you just stitched, then turn the facing and lining to the inside. We tell you to slipstitch the pressed edge of the front lining over the side seams next, but I basted this in place because I want to do all the handstitching at one time. I’ll save it for when I hem the jacket and slipstitch the lining hem in place.

Here’s my cubicle neighbor Gillian holding up my jacket so you can see the inside of it.

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along on the McCall Pattern Company blog.

Tomorrow I’ll go over making the collar. Back soon! —Meg

We’ve been sewing since 1863.

11 comments
  1. Looking pretty good.. Haven’t gotten that far yet but your pics will definitely help when I get there!

    1. Glad to hear it!

  2. Thanks for the breakdown, your color combination is very nice. I am about to start step 30 tommorrow 🙂

  3. This is looking great, Meg.

    1. Thanks, Bunny!

  4. The pea coat is looking good! I just made myself that same pattern. Love this Anne Klein pattern. I personally, fully lined the inside completely. Happy sewing!

    1. My coat is posted on Vogue’s Face book…..if you want tones the finished product!

  5. Sorry,, to see the finished product…lol

  6. I am making a mohair coat. The slit pockets are finished and so is the collar. When I put the front facing in it seems to turn in. It is a long coat — middle of calf. I also put in the silky lining, so I may have to take lining out and I have already taken facing off as far up as possible, because I can’t re-do the collar!! Any ideas? I know tough one. Just need a day to figure this out. Thanks. Valerie. Not my first long coat!!!!

    1. Hi Valerie! This is hard to answer without seeing photos. Are you a member of the McCall Pattern Group on Facebook? That’s a good place to post this question. https://www.facebook.com/groups/300735670271651/

  7. So glad I found this! I’m making a jacket with a similar lining and facing that I totally got stuck on last night. Could figure out if a piece of the shoulder seam of the back lining was to continue on past the front lining onto the facing or not. Your pictures are so helpful. Can’t wait to keep working on it later!

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