This week in the V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along we’re going over the lining and front facings today, and with the collar steps following tomorrow. Most important thing to do for these steps is PRESS, STAYSTITCH, and follow the directions in each step.
Lining fabric: For my pea coat I used a silk and cotton blend from Robert Kaufman Fabrics called Radiance. This was my first time working with this particular fabric and I really love it. The satiny side means your arms just glide through the sleeves, while the cotton fibers make it a little more substantial (good for a jacket lining) and definitely easier to work with than most lining fabrics. Highly recommend it. Other good lining options are flannel-backed satin (if you need more warmth), crepe de chine and silk charmeuse.
Steps 30 through 34:
The only part that might be hard to visualize is at 32, where you need to clip the facing seam allowance. This is what it should look like (below). Because my wool fabric is double-faced and on the thick side, I catch-stitched the facing seam allowance in place.
(For those of you who asked, changing the back half lining to a full lining is easy. Just cut pieces 4 and 8 out of your lining fabric. Follow our directions for steps 38-40 but skipping the part at 40 where you slipstitch the front side lining to the side seam.)
Ok, at Step 38 I personally had some visualization problems. Our illustration here is spot-on, but I had to look at it a couple of times to make sense of it. It’s actually really easy what you do at this step: Join the back lining to the front facing/lining pieces at the shoulder seams; join back lining to front lining at the side seams. Press seams open and press a 5/8″ fold on the side front lining.
Construct your sleeves exactly as you did with your fashion fabric. Remember, if you made any adjustments to your sleeve (like shaving a bit off the top of the sleeve head like I did), you need to make the same adjustments to your lining sleeve.
Step 39, where you’re stitching the front facing to the jacket front: Mark your facing in two places before you sew so your jacket fronts will be identical to each other. One, place a visible dot at the large circle at the top of the facing (refer to piece 11). Staystitch this area just as it’s shown in the instructions. Don’t be sloppy with your staystitching like I was or you will pay dearly when it’s time to attach the collar. (The photo below shows the seam allowance already trimmed.)
Two, make sure you stitch across the lower edges of the jacket fronts so that when placed front edge to front edge, both jacket fronts are exactly the same length. (Because how many times have you stitched jacket fronts only to discover one front is slightly longer than the other?!) I drew stitching lines on my jacket fronts to help me with this (below). Note: The front facing piece is slightly shorter than the jacket front piece; this is ok and meant to be this way—you didn’t make a mistake.
Stitch your facing as instructed in step 39. I would backstitch and reinforce where you stop stitching at the large circle (neck edge). This is where your collar will abut when you attach it, and you don’t want your seam coming apart here. Press and grade the facing seam allowances you just stitched, then turn the facing and lining to the inside. We tell you to slipstitch the pressed edge of the front lining over the side seams next, but I basted this in place because I want to do all the handstitching at one time. I’ll save it for when I hem the jacket and slipstitch the lining hem in place.
Here’s my cubicle neighbor Gillian holding up my jacket so you can see the inside of it.
Tomorrow I’ll go over making the collar. Back soon! —Meg