V1467 Sew Along: Making Your Muslin

V1467 Sew Along: making your muslin

This week in our V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along we’re focusing on making a muslin (or “toile,” if you prefer), which is the test garment you should always make first when good fit is paramount. Rachel of House of Pinheiro is our sew along co-host, and she has written an excellent post about the V1467 muslin she made and how she adjusted it to get the fit she’s looking for. Check it out now if you’re looking for good info on sewing a muslin.

I’m actually skipping the muslin phase. Horrors, right? I’d never advise anyone to skip this part, but there is a method to my madness. I’ll be sewing this jacket for a family member, and I was able to have her try on the sample garment from Anne Klein:

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along

Perfect fit, right?! The sample garment size translates to our pattern size 10, so that’s what I cut out last night:
V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along

I stayed late at work last night so I could use the cutting tables in our dressmaking department. So worth going home a little later! Cutting on tall and wide tables is THE BEST. For another dose of sewing room envy, take a look at the dressmaking department iron I used to fuse my interfacing to my jacket pieces:

V1467 Pea Coat Sew Along

Man, do those irons work fast and steam like a beast! Fabric and fusible interfacing bonded in seconds.

Speaking of fusible interfacing… An Instagram follower pointed out that we could have saved her a trip to the fabric store if we had indicated on the pattern that fusible interfacing was ok to use (we specify sew-in interfacing). So I thought I’d remind you that with our Vogue Patterns designer patterns we instruct you to sew your garment in the same way the designer created his or her garment. In this case, Anne Klein used sew-in interfacing. You, however, can change up our patterns as you’d like. If you prefer fusible interfacing, then by all means use it.

Looks like all systems are go for me to start sewing my pea coat! Where do you stand with yours? Remember, feel free to go at your own pace. We understand that life gets in the way of things.

 

We’ve been sewing since 1863.

9 comments
  1. Hi Meg I just read your comment about using fusible vs the sew-in there might be some specific reasons why the designer choose sew-in vs fusible. One when using woolens the high heat of the iron can shrink your fabric and also if its not a tight woven the glue can seep through. I know this because the beautiful Chanel like jacket I made with 7975 shrunk on me. The weave is extremely loose on that fabric.. When I did any kind of stitching — hand or machine it would fall apart so I fused all the pieces to hold the weave together.. The jacket shrunk from the heat of the woolens when it dried and settled.. So I would definitely check with their designers on this.. I myself am using a Hair Canvas sew-in interfacing on this pattern because I wanted to see the difference in creating a garment using this technique.

    1. Hi Donna! I agree with your comment. My pea coat fabric was pretreated and it has a tight weave, so I was comfortable fusing interfacing to it. Fusible or sew-in is definitely an individual choice.

    2. I used to (for about 7 years, until about 2 years ago) be a technical designer for Anne Klein Suits. While I can’t say specifically for this jacket, we always used fusible interfacing on the fronts of our jackets, bottom hem, and any details suck as collars, stands, pocket flaps and besoms or welts. Sometimes we used a lighter fusible on the back than on the front, but we often did not fuse the back at all and we never fused the sleeves (other than the sleeve head and hem). Also, we used fusible tape for jacket roll lines, front edges and armholes. While most of these inner trims were standardized, the fabric and style of the garment would dictate changes. Fusible interfacing and woven interfacing does shrink and in the industry factories do extensive testing on the trims before proceeding into full scale production… so home sewers should do the same.

      1. This is fantastic information! Thanks so much.

  2. Now that I have gone through my stash, I’m trying to decide which fabric I want to use.. Decisions,decisions…
    Happy sewing everyone

    1. Happy sewing to you too!

  3. I thought steam + fusible interfacing = bubbles and misery?

    1. It can, if you use too much steam. Test!

    2. It really depends on the interfacing you’re using. As always, test first!

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