This week it’s all about welt pockets in our #V1419sewalong. If you’ve never sewn a welt pocket before you’re probably cringing about slashing into the coat you’re already put so much work into. Do not panic. You can do this! Just follow these three guidelines: 1. Practice first: Make your first welt pocket in muslin. You don’t have to do all the steps, just 51-56 on the instruction sheet. You can make your tests in a smaller size if you want. Once you have a perfect test muslin, then try it in a small scrap of your garment fabric or a fabric that’s similar to your garment fabric. 2. No eyeballing: Your stitch lines need to be perfectly parallel and the same distance in length. Keep your ruler handy for this stage. I love using my clear quilt rulers here. 3. Take your time: This is not the point to hurry things along because you’re already over this coat. I spent most of my Sunday working on the welt pockets and I haven’t even reached step 58! A well-sewn welt pocket is a thing of beauty and you’re going to be so proud of your efforts. In this post I’ll talk about how to make the welt pockets by following our instructions. My co-host Lauren wrote extensively about her experience with the V1419 welt pockets. Before you dive in, take a look at both our posts and go through your sewing books for more tips on welt pockets. I always rely on my old copy of this Singer Tailoring book for its clear photos; if you have favorite welt pocket online tutorials or videos please mention them in the comments for others to see. Steps 51-53, my notes: Proceed as we instruct you to. I pressed my seams open first before I turned the welt. After I turned and pressed, I machine-basted along the seam line. Then I trimmed the seam to 1/4″.
Step 54, my notes: We give you guidelines where to place your welts on the front piece #2 tissue. Pin your welts in place on your coat first and make sure you like the placement. Re-adjust as necessary and mark your placement area. Baste welts in place (they should be downward, as they’ll be flipped up after everything is stitched). Make sure your welts are in exactly the same place on both front pieces—your front pieces should be mirror images of each other. Note: Just to clarify, there is no need to stitch any lines on your coat at this step or before it.
Step 55, my notes: Here’s where you need to mark your lines. Transfer the markings on the pocket piece #11 tissue to your fabric pocket piece. Check that your welt will fit snugly in this rectangle area; if not, adjust the lines as necessary. Mine fit perfectly. I recommend machine-stitching on your lines to reinforce the area. Next, place the pocket on top of the welt, matching the welt seam line with the lower stitching line on the pocket. Hand-baste carefully in place using a thread that removes easily. Now stitch along the lines (which looks like a long thin rectangle), making sure that only the bottom row of stitching catches the welt. Slash carefully in the middle between the two lines, clipping diagonally to the corners. Do your slashing one layer at a time—first the pocket layer, then flip over and slash from the reverse side of your coat.
Step 56, my notes: Follow our instructions here. I turned, and pressed and pressed and pressed to get nice neat corners. I also pounded the corners with a rubber mallet to flatten them as much as possible. Then I slipstitched the welt ends in place and basted the pocket opening closed. Note: on the designer coat the pocket openings are machine-stitched closed.
Steps 57-63, my notes: This is where I was last night at 9 pm, when I put my sewing aside to watch that edge-of-your-seat episode of Homeland. But this part of the pocket is all about adding the binding to it, and by now we’re all experts in adding binding, right? Just follow the directions here and you’ll be fine.
Next week Lauren will blog about the remaining steps in the sewalong. I know some of you have already finished your coats…how does everyone else stand? Remember, no pressure because this is a go-at-your-own pace sewalong. And don’t forget to visit our Flickr group!