V1419 Sewalong: Steps 4-22

Vogue Patterns V1419 Ralph Rucci coat sewalong

Before I start talking about making this coat, can I just give a shout-out to my co-host Lauren? I’ve been away from work recently due to a death in the family and she has been juggling the sewalong duties for the both of us. Thank you, Lauren!

Ok, let’s talk about getting through steps 4-22. The good news is that there’s nothing terribly hard to do here. Setting-in sleeves is more difficult for most sewers, so if you’ve already mastered that technique you should have no problem with this coat. Here are my tips for this part of the construction:

  • Attaching the binding to the seams is the main action you’re taking in these steps. Except for steps 6 and 7, you’re sewing it folded as shown in step 3, with the raw edges of the binding matched with the raw edges of the seams.
  • When you attach the binding to the gusset, however, you open it out, then turn and press 1/4″ on the long end. Stitch binding to the seam, then turn binding so the seam is encased; slipstitch pressed edge over seam. You can see part of my bound gusset seam in the photo above, and there’s another photo below of the designer coat gusset.
  • The rest of the time for this part of construction you sew on the binding like this:
  1. Pin or baste seam.
  2. Match raw edges of binding to raw edges of seam.
  3. Stitch seam.
  4. I like to press the seam open first, then press the binding and seam flat.
  5. Next, trim very close to the seam, like around 1/8″ or closer. Your bindings are going to be narrow. On the designer coat the stitched bindings are just a hair over 1/4″ wide.
  6. Now press seam and bias in direction we tell you to. Baste if necessary to keep layers flat.
  7. Topstitch from the right side of your coat, catching all layers as you stitch.

Lauren chose to baste her binding in place first before topstitching from the right side of her coat. This is a really smart thing to do. Me, I threw caution to the wind and just topstitched from the right side, hoping I was catching all layers. Most of the time I did, and this is what my binding looks like on the interior of my coat:

IMG_4317
But there are points, mostly at the beginning and ends of seams, where the binding doesn’t look as neat and uniform as this or I failed to catch all layers. To which I say, it is what it is! It looks very nice from the outside and that’s what matters most to me.

Readers, don’t beat yourself up over the little things, like whether or not your binding is uniformly stitched. Do the best you can and keep going. I took a look at the inside of the actual designer coat and there are imperfections  in the binding stitching. But that’s how you know this coat was constructed by a couture sewer and not mass-produced. V1419 Vogue Patterns coat sewalong
Couture designers, they’re just like us! Their sewing machines have thread hissy fits just like ours do! (photo above of the interior of the designer coat)

V1419 Vogue Patterns coat sewalong

Here’s a photo of the gusset area of the designer coat. See how the gusset binding isn’t stitched down, where it is everywhere else? (I’m keeping this coat in my office for the duration of the sewalong; let me know if there are parts of the coat you want me to photograph and I’ll post the pics on Flickr.)

Another important tip: Don’t ignore it when we tell you to staystitch. Do this. It will help you ease your fabric in some spots, like when you’re stitching the gusset to the sleeve. And clip your seams too! All this helps with helping a shorter section match up with a longer section. Below, you can see how I use lots of pins to ease-in an area, in this case part of the gusset.

V1419 Vogue Patterns coat sewalong

In case you were wondering, my fabric is a double-faced metallic brocade from Carolina Herrera that I bought online from MoodFabrics.com. It is very stiff and it bells out just like the designer coat…which is a style I’m not entirely sure I like on me. Still a way to go constructing this coat before I can make any final judgments, though.

I’ve been paying very close attention to our instructions for this pattern, and I think we did a good job for a pattern with a lot of steps. If you read and follow them you’ll be ok. What I do wish for are some illustration close-ups, like around steps #6, #18 and #20. I’ll be sharing my construction experience with my co-workers who work in the writing and illustration areas, and if you have any comments regarding this part of the process please let me know in the comments for this post.

V1419 sewalong: belt

A few people have asked questions about the belt, so above are photos of the belt on the designer coat. Hope this helps.

Next week Lauren will talk about steps 23-50, so bop over to her blog for that part. And don’t forget we’ve got an active Flickr group going. It’s very easy to join it and participate, so hope to see you there too.

Ok, where do you stand in your coat-making? Tell me in the comments!

 

We’ve been sewing since 1863.

26 comments
  1. What beautiful workmanship. I am not participating in the sew-along but enjoy reading the posts anyway. Inspirational!

  2. Hi Meg,

    First of all, I’d like to say your sewalong posts are very easy to understand and follow and you’ve cleared up a lot of questions I had with this coat.
    There is just one thing I’m not sure of. As much as I love the flared sleeves I’m thinking they are a bit to much for my coat and I’m wondering if you have any advice for narrowing these down a bit without losing the beautiful seam lines? There are so many pattern pieces I’m not sure where to start! Thanks!

    1. Hi Miranda! Me too, not crazy about flared sleeves on me. So I just narrowed them at the muslin stage and modified my pattern from there. To me, the lines of the sleeve still “worked.” Can you try this on your muslin?

  3. I cut out my pattern and made a muslin of the size (10) I usually wear in Vogue and found that I was just swimming in the coat. I’m waiting for my new pattern to come in the mail so I can make a smaller size. Too bad I didn’t just trace the pattern.

    1. Hi Becca! Ok, I’m not getting why you couldn’t just cut a smaller size? You should have lines left for sizes 6 and 8 if you cut a size 10.

      1. For the body pieces it doesn’t work like that. You actually cut off the smaller sizes from the shoulder and sleeve area which are my problem areas. Since the pattern seems very well drafted I would prefer to cut the real size 6 rather than a guess at where it would be.

  4. Great post, Meg! And you know I’ve got your back whenever ya need me 🙂

  5. Meg, I’m so sorry for your loss. I hope that you are able to find comfort in your family. I find sewing to be a wonderful escape for me in times of stress, and I hope that this sew-a-long can be a healthy distraction for you during yours.

    My progress is much slower than I’d hoped. The print on my fabric is making it difficult to mark my button holes and pockets, so I’m having to thread trace. I also still need to do my stay stitching and reinforcing. I think once I can get past all the tedious prep work, the coat will come together much quicker. I’m excited to see it develop, so going slowly and forcing myself not to skip steps or cut corners is so hard! I know in the long term I’ll be glad I took my time.

    I am so VERY grateful that you are posting the detail pictures of the designer coat. The visuals are super helpful, not just for construction purposes, but also for giving myself permission to not be perfect. I really like seeing that even a high-end garment skips a stitch from time to time!

    1. Thank you, Crystal. And the photos help me too!

  6. I’m loving your fabric and can’t wait to see it made up.

    1. Thank you, Ramona!

  7. Love the explanations. Personally when I was making the coat I must not have read the instructions regarding the belt very closely because I didn’t realize there were actual button holes, I just sewed the buttons on from the outside through the 2 layers of belt. I also figured it would make it easier if I wanted to ever tighten or loosen the belt. And my seams are way bigger! I cut mine to 1/4″ then put the seam binding on so that I had plenty of overlap when sewing from the outside. I did the same as you and didn’t baste anything, just made sure to follow my pin line.

    1. Hi Jae! Sure, you can skip the buttonholes if you want. I may!

  8. Oh Meg, I am so sorry for your loss! At least you have an interesting job/vocation to occupy your mind and your fingers. Am excited to see how your and other stitchers’ versions turn out. I live in a climate — and am in a time of life — in which coats are rarely needed, so I am sitting this one out.

    1. Thank you, Lin. My coat isn’t really a coat but more of a jacket, the way it’s turning out. Not heavy at all.

  9. I finished the prep work and now I can start sewing. Yay!
    Meg, could you please make a picture from the inside of the armpit? Thank you!

    1. Hi Kathrin! I just posted a photo for you on the V1419 Flickr group. This group is open just for browsing; you don’t have to join it if you don’t want to. https://www.flickr.com/groups/v1419sewalong/ —Meg

  10. Oh wow, you’re fast! Thank you!

  11. Hi Meg, I’m wondering if you can help me. I seem to have lost piece #12 from Vogue 1419. Could you send me the dimensions for it and a photo would be great if there are markings on it. I have torn my sewing room apart but cannot locate it. Thank you so very much.

    1. Hi Sueann! Please send an email with this request to consumerservice@voguepatterns.com and Laurie will be happy to help you. She’s in the office Monday through Friday.

  12. […] binding on my belt incorrectly. WHOOPS! The binding should actually all face to the inside – there are photos on the McCall blog for clarification. I decided to leave mine because I like the way it looks, but just fyi if you are […]

  13. For the moment, I’m opting not to sew along. BUT I’m loving all these interior shots of the designer coat….it makes the project feel more do-able and what are a few designer touches like some crooked stitching to make everything more real (and couture?).

  14. Brilliant idea! Love reading this step by step!

  15. Hi, I was searching for Vogue tips and found this blog. I am making Vogue 8884 and I can not understand exactly what to do for step 3! It is a yoked pattern, front and back, and calls for topstitching above the seam line. That is pretty straightforward, but here are the directions: Crease yoke front along foldline; press. Topstitch along stitching line, through all stitches.
    So do I crease the foldline and bring the folded edge up to the stitching line? That seems to be the logical step, but I’m not at all certain. Please are you able to help? Thanks so much!

    1. H! Please send this question to consumerservices@voguepatterns.com. Thanks!

      1. I will. Thanks so much!
        And I’m so glad I found the blog! Looking forward to new sewing challenges!

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