V1419 Sewalong: Random Stuff

The Sisterhood of the Traveling Ralph Rucci Coat.
The Sisterhood of the Traveling Ralph Rucci Coat. This coat magically looks flattering on anyone who puts it on. These are some of my coworkers.

Hello, fellow V1419 sewalongers (and those who are just going along for the ride). This weekend I cut out my muslin (using cotton duck) and will start sewing it tonight as I watch the new season TV shows (yay for TV and sewing!). Fingers crossed that I won’t have to make any major fit adjustments because, bleh, fit is my weak spot. I know many of you are wondering about what kind of fabric to buy. Sewalong co-host Lauren’s post next week will go into more detail about this, but in the meantime think STIFF DRAPE and FIRM HAND. You need a fabric with those qualities if you want a coat that has the unique shape of the designer original. The fabric Ralph Rucci created is a heavy, water-repellent gabardine backed with some kind of wool flannel. The result is a substantial fabric. More photos of this coat, including exterior and interior detail shots, can be found on this Pinterest board we created: V1419 Ralph Rucci Coat Sewalong. Also take a look at the collections on Chado Ralph Rucci for fabric inspiration. You’ll see that the funnel neck and rounded shoulders of this coat are trademark Rucci elements. A couple of social media things:

  • Please use the hashtag #V1419Sewalong if you’re tweeting about it (which we hope you do!).
  • Here’s a sewalong blog badge to use (below) if you’d like
  • Please feel free to post your progress photos and completed coat photos on this Pinterest board.
  • Lauren and I want to set up a way for participants to chat with us and each other as we sew this coat together. You can comment on our respective blogs and we can talk with each other there (and commenters are welcome to talk among themselves on our blogs). But we also want to set up either a Facebook or Flickr group for active discussion, questions, and sharing of photos. Please leave a comment here and let me know which you prefer: Facebook group or Flickr group?
  • UPDATED: I just finished my muslin and holy smokes this pattern is fitted! I made my usual Vogue Patterns size and I’d need to buy industrial-strength Spanx to make it work on me. Make a muslin first, people! I’m altering mine to fit now….

That’s all I can think of for now. Be sure to follow Lauren/Lladybird too each week as we’re sharing posting responsibilities. Leave a comment with the answer to the question above, and let us know what you’re thinking about for fabric. V1419-sewalong-bade-125px Paste this code into your blog sidebar: <div align=”center”><a href=”http://blog.mccall.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/V1419-sewalong-bade-125px.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-663″ src=”http://blog.mccall.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/V1419-sewalong-bade-125px.jpg” alt=”V1419-sewalong-bade-125px” width=”125″ height=”125″ /></a></div> V1419-sewalong-badge-175px Paste this code into your blog sidebar: <div align=”center”><a href=”http://blog.mccall.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/V1419-sewalong-badge-175px.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-large wp-image-664″ src=”http://blog.mccall.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/V1419-sewalong-badge-175px.jpg” alt=”V1419-sewalong-badge-175px” width=”175″ height=”175″ /></a></div>

V1419-sewalong-badge-250pxPaste this code into your blog sidebar: <div align=”center”><a href=”http://blog.mccall.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/V1419-sewalong-badge-250px.jpg”><img class=”aligncenter size-large wp-image-665″ src=”http://blog.mccall.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/V1419-sewalong-badge-250px.jpg” alt=”V1419-sewalong-badge-250px” width=”250″ height=”250″ /></a></div>

We’ve been sewing since 1863.

  1. Hi, Meg – I have a piece of wool gabardine in my stash that I want to use for the coat. The drape, however, isn’t as firm as what I suspect the coat requires. So, I am thinking of using a stiff interfacing (maybe hair canvas) sandwiched between the fabric and underlining. Given your experience with the coat, do you think this is a viable option?

    1. Hi Nancy! Hmm, I worry that hair canvas will be too stiff. Maybe an interfacing that’s not quite as hard? Or, if you want to go the underlining route, maybe a stiffer fabric for that instead?

    2. Pick a softer hair canvas for the gabardine and you should have good results. You can always drape your gabardine and the hair canvas over your arm before committing to the interfacing. While testing, think women’s tailoring vs men’s: you want body, but you’re not trying to create a firm shell over the body.

  2. Hi, Meg, and nice to meet you! I’d prefer Facebook.
    My choice of fabric is a double face wool, on the one side is dark grey and on the other, light grey. Both sides are united by little threads, which i have to split before sewing the seams on one side. The other side, will have to be tucked inwards and hand sewn. The final result will be not one, but two coats! or a reversible coat. The body and drape of the wool will be strong enough for the design, I think. My only concern is that it may become too thick, but i hope it will be allright. The second concern is if I will be able to sew all the double seamb correctly for it to be truly reversible. Wish me luck!! I will show you my wool soon. To have you for counselling will be wonderful. Muak!

    1. Hi Mertxe! Wow, that sounds very ambitious and like A LOT of hand sewing. The end result will be beautiful and worth it, I’m sure, but perhaps make the muslin first to see if you want to commit to that much labor? Just a thought….

  3. Hi Meg, do you think the coat needs to be underlined, or if I find a suitable stiff fabric should that be enough alone? I know Lauren is covering fabric next week, but I’m hoping to do my fabric shopping this weekend, as I’ll be in NYC. Also, I vote for a Flickr group. 🙂

    1. Hi Marrie! No, I do not think it needs to be underlined if your fabric has a stiff drape. I’m using a double-faced brocade and have no intentions of underlining it. In fact, I’d say avoid underlining if you can. It’s always easier to work with one layer of fabric rather than two.

  4. I found a med weight wool that was moderately priced. I am going to try that. At the fabric store I had a “conference” with a couple of other women, one teaches sewing in a high school, and made the decision to try this. It is medium weight , not too stiff and a nice drape. Hope this isn’t too soft. It’s hard to decide. I am really excited to start this. My wool is black. I have a yard plus of silver satin left over from a dress worn to daughters wedding for th bias binding. Hopefully will start my muslin later this week.

  5. Definitely prefer a Facebook group.

    I ended up going with a wool flannel. Not as stiff or thick as I wanted, but I changed the sleeves on my version to be fitted rather than belled, and made the fit snugger throughout the body, so I’m not too worried about it. I’m also doing underlining, which presents opportunities for adding interfacing if necessary…

  6. Hello! My pattern arrived a day ago (holy cow the instructions are intimidating) and I just got back from browsing for fabric. I agree… finding an appropriate fabric is kinda hard work. I like flickr, but mostly because I have to upload my photos there before I blog them anyway. I also don’t like sharing personal photos on facebook very much.

  7. Hi Meg 🙂 I would prefer facebook (i dont have a flickr account!) I’m in the UK and where I live, fabric shopping is very limited. But I am thinking of this: http://www.trurofabrics.com//english-wool-coating-fabric-terracotta.html It’s gorgeous! Do you think it will be firm enough?

    1. Hi Dawn! Can you order a swatch? That’s my best advice. It looks lovely but do consider how you feel about wearing unlined wool.

      1. Hi Meg! Yes, I have a swatch already and I love it. Hadnt thought about unlined wool though… thank you!

  8. Facebook group! I need to get going on picking my fabric.

  9. I’m buying the pattern tonight. I plan to trace the pieces onto muslin this weekend.

    I need to visit Mood’s website to choose an appropriate fabric.

  10. Oh, add me to the list of those who’d prefer a Facebook group.

  11. I love the look of this coat, but my body shape is a rectangle/column, which is not one of the recommended shapes, I’m not sure why, can you provide some comment. Thanks.

    1. I’m a rectangle and I liked the designer coat on me (at least the half of me that could fit the sample size coat). I think it’s more a question of if you like to wear fit ‘n’ flare shapes on your figure. If the answer is yes, then you’ll probably like this coat on you. Of course, you could always make a muslin first and see what you think. That’s probably the smartest idea.

  12. I prefer Facebook as well. I’ll be in San Francisco this Saturday, so I’m stopping by Fabric Warehouse to see what they have. Hope I find something I fall in love with!

  13. I found the *perfect* purple wool melton for this project. I’m so looking forward to creating this for my new winter coat! Hey, Meg, at least one of the Curvy Collective editors will be taking part in the sewalong. 😀

    1. Oh cool! Glad to have you on board. Maybe you can help warn everyone to make a muslin first as this pattern runs really small.

      1. Lol, will do! I’ll possibly post my progress posts on the CSC blog.

  14. I just ordered my pattern and can’t wait for it to come. Looking forward to more advice on the fabric! I would prefer Facebook.

  15. Facebook.
    I finally talked myself into doing this. So I just ordered my pattern (yay for the sale!), and will be getting fabric this weekend. I’m thinking of getting some nice wool from Woolrich; I happen to be one of those crazy people who absolutely love the feel of wool so no problem with unlined!

  16. I am trying to source a wool gaberdine since it’s one of the recommended fabrics. Would I still need to underline it?
    ps Another lady used a lightweight interfacing to fuse her fabric to some silk gazar. Would there be any other combinations which might work?

    1. Hi Karen! My best advice is to order a swatch and see how it feels unlined to wear. I recommend avoiding underlining if you can, because who wants to complicate things by working with two layers instead of one? I don’t recommend trying any kind of fusing. Quality fusing results are hard to accomplish without professional-grade equipment. Order swatches of a variety fabrics and see which you like the best. I ordered A LOT of swatches before I settled on a double-face brocade. Good luck!

  17. I’m probably the only person who prefers Flickr for sewing projects, but I can do Facebook. I’m leaning towards a forest green wool flannel coating, but I haven’t ordered a swatch yet. Super excited to do my first coat though!

  18. Hi Meg!

    I’d prefer Flickr, I don’t do FB. I bought the patttern last Friday, and I still have to buy the muslin. I’ll be picking that up sometime between now and this Friday. As for fabric, I’m still thinking it over. I’m making the coat for my daughter, and she has a definite idea of what she wants. Its just a matter of obtaining the right weight that suits the design and the right texture for how she wants it to look. We looked through Mood’s selection together and pinned a few to our board. I want to make the muslin first, and cross the fabric bridge when I arrive at it.


  19. Facebook, please. And *hurry* with the fabric suggestions. I’m soooo ready to get going but am feeling a little intimidated about getting the drape right. Is wool considered stiff? Can’t decide.

    1. Go ahead and make your muslin if you can. That will tell you a lot about what kind of fabric you want.

  20. I wish I had the time to participate but it will be fun to see what you and everyone else create!

  21. Hi, I vote for Flickr as I don’t do Facebook. Looking forward to the sewalong. Thanks.

  22. Please, please, please use Flickr as the platform. I don’t have Facebook and don’t plan to get it. I will miss out on a lot if you choose that platform.

  23. I like Flickr also, prefer not to discuss all this in a FB group.

    Can’t wait!

  24. Not sure if it’s still in stock at my local fabric store, but I’m thinking of the ostrich feather print home dec fabric from the Iman Collection. Would this work?

    1. Mary Beth, probably.

  25. Facebook, please!

    I’m thinking of a fairly sturdy cotton sateen. I’ve hunted everywhere and can’t find a gabardine in the color I want. I have to pull out the pattern and study it to determine whether I can use the same fabric for the contrast.

    1. That would probably work for a lightweight coat.

      1. Oh, thank you so much! This helps tremendously.

  26. Hi, I prefer Facebook but if Flickr is chosen it’s fine. I can do both.

  27. Flickr, please! I dislike Facebook because it’s just too much personal information. :/

  28. Facebook please

  29. Facebook would be great. I just (unknowingly) bought my fabric in Shanghai while there recently. It’s a firm handed wool with an unusual border print that has different colored yarns couched and felted into an abstract design. Thank you for the heads up on the fitting. I will be doing a muslin.

  30. Hello, again. I’ve cut my pattern pieces and am ready to make my muslin. I’m wondering which size to trace. I have a 36-inch high bust, 38-inch full bust, and 30-inch waist. Size 16? Or go up to a size 18?

    1. Go with your full bust measurement. Glad you’re using your time wisely and making a muslin first!

  31. I have a Blogger account and I have been trying to paste the sewalong badge on my blog page with no success. Has anyone run into this problem or is it user error? Thanks.

    1. Hi Christina! I haven’t gotten any reports of trouble with this yet. Did you try saving and uploading the image instead of pasting in the code?

      1. Ummm, yeah! I hadn’t realized I’d already taken care of it over the weekend. Let’s pretend this conversation didn’t happen. 😉 Thanks

  32. I vote for Facebook, but either way I hope it goes up soon. I love the conversations and pictures that go with sew alongs! I intend to trace off my pattern today and will work my muslin out over the weekend. I impulsively bought the last 3 1/4 yards of a Donna Karan double sided brocade (black/white/grey abstract spotted print) at the American Sewing Expo last weekend. I had no idea what I was going to do with the fabric…then I saw Lladybird’s sew along post. I think it will make a striking and unique coat!

    1. Cool! I’m also using a double-faced brocade, mine by Carolina Herrera.

  33. […] who has made this coat before for tips and found this awesome sew-a-long through Lladybird and McCall. I hope to have mine finished before the end of the month but that will all depend on when I […]

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