Sew Our New Ralph Rucci Patterns

Ralph Rucci for Vogue Patterns; V1404 and V1419

These two new Vogue Patterns by Ralph Rucci are top sellers for us, and I think it’s easy to see why. The designs are fresh and flattering, and they’re challenging just enough for sewers who are tired of making basic patterns all the time. Thinking about sewing one yourself? First read our tips to ensure success with V1404 dress and V1419 coat, then scroll through the detail photos we’ve posted here:

1) Be sure you like the fit ‘n’ flare style on yourself first. You do not want to go through all the effort only to discover you’re more of a sheath person. (Ask me about my peplum debacle of 2012.)

2) Make a muslin! I hear you groaning but this is practically mandatory for these two patterns. You want a slim fit through the shoulder and bodice. If you can’t bear the thought of sewing an entire muslin, just do what we do here sometimes and only make the bodice and a little bit of the skirt.

3) Use the right fabric if you want to closely mimic the designer originals. The V1419 coat is made of a heavy, water-repellent gabardine bonded to some kind of flannel. “Think techno fabrics,” advises Penny Payne, McCall Pattern Company fabric editor. She likes denim and gabardines for this coat—anything that is firm and tightly woven. You want the fabric to have stiff folds to it.

The V1404 original designer dress is made of ultrasuede, a soft-to-the-touch fabric that makes stiff folds. We love denim or a thicker wool crepe for this dress. You might be tempted to choose a lightweight dress fabric but keep in mind the end result won’t hold that flare shape of the designer original.

4) Take your time with these patterns. I just looked over the guide sheets for both patterns and we instruct you to sew them in the same way Mr. Rucci did—your interior dress or coat will look just the same as the designer garments. Which is a really cool thing and should make you proud that you are constructing your garment the same way a noted couture designer does.

Details photos:

Ralph Rucci for Vogue Patterns V1419 coat.
The original Ralph Rucci coat from which V1419 is drafted. Note how the fabric makes the sleeves form distinct bells.
Interior of Ralph Rucci for Vogue Patterns V1419 coat.
The inside of the designer coat. No lining, just beautifully finished Hong Kong seams.
Interior of Ralph Rucci for Vogue Patterns V1419 coat.
Another interior shot of V1419 for you.
Ralph Rucci for Vogue Patterns V1404 dress.
The designer original dress for V1404. Note how the ultrasuede fabric makes stiff folds even on the hanger. That’s what gives it the distinct fit ‘n’ flare shape.
Interior of Ralph Rucci for Vogue Patterns V1404 dress.
Interior of V1404 dress, specifically the lining side of the quilted hem.
Interior of Ralph Rucci for Vogue Patterns V1404 dress.
V1404 dress turned inside-out. We instruct you to finish your version just like this.

Visit our new Pinterest board for even more detail shots for these two patterns, plus several more photos of the new Vogue Patterns fall collection. People have been telling us how much they love these detail photos, and we’re thrilled to hear that. We’ll do our best to post more images like this.

We’ve been sewing since 1863.

33 comments
  1. Seriously love the detail shots and explanations of each garment. Keep it coming, please! Those images of the insides are terrific. It helps give a better understanding of what we can do when we buy and sew up the patterns ourselves.

  2. I love that you are giving detail shots and information on what fabric the designer used. Please do more posts like this one about your other designer patterns. I love the pinterest board, too.

  3. This post are absolutely great (as well as the other shots on pinterest), I find looking at inside designer garments extremely inspiring, I hope there will be more soon!!

  4. Thanks so much for the info and especially the high resolution photos. There are often little details I miss in descriptions or instructions until I’m actually beginning the garment so all the extra photos are gold. I do hope you continue to do this with more patterns. I also enjoy the designer patterns in large part for the construction and details even if I never do make the design so seeing the photos makes me all the more interested in some of these. And even when an original fabric isn’t available to me, I’m very curious to know what was used and how it works with the design so thanks for the fabric info, too.

  5. I am loving seeing the innards of these garments and all the extra information you are sharing. This is fabulous. Your blog really adds to the sewing experience of these garments. Thanks.

  6. It is very inspiring and exciting to see the inside of the real designer dress and coat in detail. Thanks.

  7. This is *so*, *so* timely. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I am currently on a quest to find the right material for the coat and this (plus the additional photos) will help immensely. A suggestion: couldn’t Vogue designer patterns note on the envelope somewhere what the original materials are in the designer originals?

  8. Thank you, thank you, thank you 🙂

  9. Wow, thanks for posting these! It’s very inspiring to be able to “snoop shop” these garments without trying to hunt down the originals.

  10. These posts are so helpful (and interesting)! I love these garments, but will probably pass them this time. In general I think I am one of those women who look better in shift/sheath shapes. But the details and the insides — fabulous!

  11. So interesting to see the insides. I think its great the instructions cover the same finishes as the designer used.

  12. Love seeing the insides and the info about fabrics, so useful, thank you.

  13. Thank you for all the close up shots. I often wish that I could zoom in on the pictures on the pattern websites.

  14. Thank you very very much! By chance these are the only 2 patterns I bought from the collection. I was thinking that the dress was made from linen and a fine wool would work on the coat. I will heed your advice and buy the fabrics you use for both.

    Please do this more often. It will help us to ward off potential mistakes and give a realistic look at a garment. This is more valuable than the pattern cover shot.

  15. I also love the detailed shots of the garment interiors thank you! From a technical point of view, one of my peeves about commercial patterns is the lack of suggested seam finishes for “easy” and “beginner” patterns. It’s great that you include them here for these more advanced styles, but I would love to see suggested seam finishes in more of the instruction pages.

  16. i loooooove these detail shots. more please! how bout that pink seamed vintage vogue pattern 🙂

  17. Thanks for this! It’s very useful to hear about the fabric. And I’m rather comforted to see that the quilting lines on the original yellow Rucci dress aren’t 100% perfect.

  18. I love these details! Ralph Rucci is my favourite designer/pattern combo, even if I haven’t actually made any of his designs yet. They are so unusual, and these photos really add to the allure of these two patterns — I also find the information about the original fabrics very useful and just interesting in itself.

  19. Wow – that coat is beautiful! The inside of the coat even more beautiful – I think I would want to wear it inside out just to show off those gorgeous Hong Kong seams.

  20. I love the coat. The inside detail makes the coat. I may just try this only inside out. Fantastic!

  21. Its evident from the postings that we home sewers are absolutely ravenous for information like you’ve posted here. A mere 5 paragraphs and 6 pics and we’re all drooling. Please keep it coming!

  22. I likely will not make either pattern as they are not really my style, but I love to see the designer originals — especially the inside views. Thank you!

  23. Thank you for the sneak peek inside these beautiful garments. Looking forward to seeing your other designers’ creations featured this way as well.

    And please, do tell about the peplum debacle! ; )

  24. Wow!!! This is so amazing and timely. I love Chado Ralph Rucci’s designs. Your tips and photos are a great help. I can now embark on my projects with more insight to duplicate the level of construction as Rucci’s. Thank you and keep the information coming. Congrats on the Blog.

  25. Thank You!!! This is a big step in the right direction. As a former professional samplemaker i can usually figure out how to get couture type results, but everyone can use some inside info and pictures are, for me at least, way more helpful than written directions.

  26. Is it just me or is there way too much sleeve cap ease on Vogue 1404 for a sleeve that’s supposed to perfectly espouse the armhole? Might there be a glitch in the pattern?

    1. Hi! Have you tried to sew this pattern yet, or is this an observation based on the pattern photographs? Rucci’s atelier provides the patterns to us, which we use to then create the Vogue Patterns. So Rucci patterns always hew close to his original design.

  27. Hello,
    I’ve been making up a muslin and it’s all been going without a hitch until the sleeves. I double checked to see that I had indeed traced off the right size so no problem there. The sleeve is too baggy (by a good inch and a half) to fit into the armhole properly.

    1. What pattern are you writing about?

  28. …Vogue 1404… the Ralph Rucci yellow ultrasuede dress as pictured above…

  29. Just as a follow up… according to my calculations I would have to remove 5 cm (2″) of sleeve cap ease for the sleeve to fit smoothly into the armhole as per the technical drawings and instructions. Indeed, when one considers that the original garment was constructed from ultrasuede, such generous sleeve cap ease is a bit flabbergasting as ultrasuede doesn’t ease well at all and furthermore, the photos of the sleeve cap seem to be immaculately smooth. I’ll be slashing and pivoting the ease out and I’ll let y’all know how that pans out on the muslin…

  30. Verdict is : There’s 4.5 to 5 cm of sleeve cap ease that need to be taken out if the sleeve is to fit smoothly into the armhole.

    1. Hi Marie-Michelle! Please feel free to send your comments about this pattern to consumerservices@voguepatterns.com. We can pass them along to the patternmaking team. Please include pertinent information about your fabric and size used. Thanks!

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